Glenn's shaving tips for home shaving
Gents customer advisor and shaving expert tips
Going to the barber and experiencing that extra shaving sensation is something out of the ordinary, with all the pleasant accessories and special procedures involved. Is it possible to recreate some of that feeling at home in the bathroom? Glenn here offers some tips that will bring you one step closer to what you experience in the barber's chair
PREPARATORY PRE-SHAVE
Start by washing your face with warm water, or start shaving after a shower so that the bathroom is warm and humid. Let's start with the "pre-work" called pre-shave, a softening treatment that prepares the skin and beard for shaving. Pre-shave also counteracts irritation, makes the beard easier to work with, and acts as an additional protective layer. But above all, it provides better glide during shaving.
The traditional pre-shave at barbershops is undoubtedly shaving oil, and the classic here is Truefitt & Hills lightly citrus-scented oil with a perfect consistency. Another alternative is a so-called pre-shave cream in paste form, something that Italian Proraso has launched as its trademark and is often used in Italy. The pre-shave cream in the green series, with its eucalyptus oil and menthol, cools the skin and feels nurturing. For those with extra sensitive skin, I usually highlight the white variant, which contains green tea and rye flour and has a milder scent.
NOTE! Remember that all pre-shave (oil or paste) should be applied and massaged in as a thin layer, similar to a film on the skin. Let the pre-shave remain on the skin when you apply the warm towel in the next step, so it should not be rinsed off!
WARM TOWELS
Then we come to the special procedure that makes the barber visit that particularly pleasant experience - namely the warm towels! For the barber, this moment is important, as it makes the pre-shave work more actively and prepares the skin and beard optimally for shaving. The skin is exfoliated by the heat, and the pores of the skin open up and are cleaned from bacteria.
Of course, there is nothing like the feeling of being pampered by someone else and just focusing on enjoying and relaxing, but you can actually arrange this moment at home. Roll up a medium-sized towel and soak it in hot water (as hot as possible). Squeeze out the excess (it should not drip with water) and then put it - yes, in the microwave! Set the microwave to the highest temperature and let it sit for at least 30 minutes
Then lie comfortably in a chair or on the couch and unfold the warm towel. Fan it a bit and let it cool for a few seconds - it shouldn't be scalding hot, but warm. Then wrap it like a package around your face and neck so that only your nose sticks out (you should be able to breathe!). Lie with the towel wrapped around for about one to two minutes and then gently remove it. The barber often repeats this moment two or three times with new towels for each shaving session (with the grain, against the grain, etc.), but at home, you can start with just once for simplicity. Now you are ready for shaving!
SHAVING CREAM & SHAVING SOAP
The next step is shaving lather. With a shave cream in paste form, you can quickly and easily create a creamy lather with the help of a shaving brush. However, if you prefer a hard shave soap remember that this requires more work and more technique to get the right consistency of the lather (if you have too much water, gently squeeze out the excess from the brush). Benjamin Barbers soap is good and do not dry out the skin too much. Prorasos softer soaps, which are a mix of cream and soap, are an interesting alternative for those who want a softer consistency that is quicker to work with.
When you have achieved a consistency that corresponds to something between whipped cream and soft serve ice cream, you have hit the mark. Then apply the shaving lather to your face and neck with the brush and make sure to cover the areas thoroughly.
SHAVING WITH A SHAVETTE
In Europe and the Western world, it is now standard to use a shavette – a razor with replaceable blades, at the barber. The reasons are several; among other things, it would take too long with a true rakkniv (straight razor/cut-throat) due to stropping and maintenance, but above all, the main reason is health and hygiene. At home, you can of course use your fine razor with a fixed carbon steel blade if you prefer.
As for shavettes, has Sailor's cheap but durable shavette has remained an old faithful in my bathroom; I've had it for nine years and it's still going strong. But if you prefer something with more weight and in luxurious materials, there are plenty of brands and models available.
When you're done shaving, wet a towel in cold water, place it over your face and neck, and let it sit for a short while to give your skin a refreshing cool-down. Then dry off with a clean towel
FINISH WITH AFTER SHAVE BALM
Shaving should be finished by massaging in an after shave balm in cream form because it is not based on drying alcohol. Classic after shave lotion with alcohol is still an old favorite for many because it provides a refreshing feeling, but in that case, I recommend Proraso's green with Eucalyptus, which contains nurturing witch hazel, an ingredient that prevents inflammation and irritation. Another favorite is the old classic green Hega from Uppsala or the Spanish 1930s classic Floïd. All contain substances that counteract the drying effects of alcohol. However, I still recommend combining afterwards with a softening balm/cream.
Otherwise, most barbers today agree that the moisturizing and nourishing ingredients provided by a creamy after shave balm are an optimal choice. One of my favorites is Benjamin Barber's after shave balm with Black Oak, which contains a unique blend of essential oils and nourishing ingredients - it is also unique in that it can be used as a conditioner for the face. For those who feel that an after shave balm is not absorbed sufficiently into the skin and want a lighter consistency, a so-called after shave gel may be something to try instead.
There you go! Now you're done shaving and ready for a new day - freshly shaved and refreshed. Good luck!
