FAQ:5 most frequently asked questions about razors
WRITTEN BY SIMON KLAREN, BARBER
At Gents, we often get many customer questions about razors and shaving. Here we address some of the most important questions we come across.
#1 WHAT IS THE DIFFERENCE BETWEEN SHAVING WITH A CLASSIC SAFETY RAZOR AND A MODERN GILLETTE?
Unlike a modern Gillette multi-blade razor, the safety razor, with its sharp double blades and more effective blade exposure, shaves much closer to the skin, meaning you get a deeper, cleaner shave without having to work harder. If you have sensitive skin, the tightly spaced rows of blades of the modern multi-blade razor can also create friction that irritates the skin, as well as the fact that you automatically want to apply pressure. A safety razor may be a better choice, as the sharpness of the blades will not allow you to apply pressure and stress your skin. If you are used to a modern multi-blade razor, just remember to tilt the handle of the safety razor outwards by about 30 degrees so that you get the right blade exposure.
#2 ISN'T IT EASY TO CUT YOURSELF WITH A SAFETY RAZOR?
You can definitely cut yourself when using a safety razor, but it's usually because you apply too much pressure, which many people have unknowingly learnt to do with the modern multi-blade razors that don't shave as close to the skin. The point of a safety razor and its sharply sharpened blades is instead that you should not apply pressure but just let it work itself, thus protecting the skin while getting a cleaner shave. Then you won't cut yourself either. You should therefore see the sharpness of the double blade as an advantage, both for the shaving result and for the skin, and not as something harmful or negative.
And remember: in the unlikely event that you cut yourself, there's always the amazing alum stick to effectively stop the bleeding!
#3 WHICH SAFETY RAZOR AND BLADES SHOULD I CHOOSE?
THERE ARE SO MANY VARIETIES.
All double blades fit all safety razors regardless of brand and model, so you don't have to worry about different holders for different blades. Instead, the choice is based on the combination of blade and plane in relation to what your beard quality and skin requires. For example, some planer models have more gentle and less "steep" blade exposure in the head than others.
If you have a normal to soft beard, you can choose medium blades like Sailor's or Derby along with Sailor's planer 98R (which has a slightly gentler blade exposure) or butterfly 99R (with steeper, "more efficient" exposure), depending on what suits you.
For those with very coarse and awkward beard growth (and maybe even sensitive skin), a combination that doesn't tempt you to apply extra pressure is what we recommend with the Sailor's butterfly 99R and the sharp Feather blades. But one tip is to try out what works for you - we all have unique needs.
Each safety razor has its own personality and design, and different blades have different sharpness and coatings. Testing and experimenting to find the right combination is part of the fun and also what enables you to get a shave that suits your specific needs!
#4 IS A SAFETY RAZOR MORE EXPENSIVE THAN A MODERN MULTI-BLADE RAZOR?
Not really. In fact, you save money and get more value and shaving experience for your money. Although you may initially have to pay a little more for the razor, you can have it for life. Shaving with a safety razor is also cheaper in the long run as the double razor blades - unlike the rather expensive blades of the multi-blade razors - are incredibly cheap (a safety razor from Sailor's can be obtained for less than SEK 300, so even the razor does not have to be particularly hard on the wallet). For example, a five-pack of Sailor's blades costs SEK 25 and you can use them several times. Also more environmentally friendly!
#5 HOW OFTEN DO I CHANGE THE BLADES AND WHAT DO I DO WITH THE USED ONES?
How often you need to change the blade is individual - the general rule is one change after three to four shaves but you can have a double blade anywhere from two to six times depending on how coarse your beard is and how fast it grows. A good starting point is to simply feel for yourself. When you feel that the plane is no longer working easily and freely on its own and you notice that it wants to chop (or you are tempted to push) - change the blade! After all, double blades are so cheap that neither your skin nor your shaving results benefit from continuing to work with a worn-out blade.
Store your used leaves in the pocket on the back of the box, or in the smart "leaf bank" from Sailor's or Feather and then return it to a pharmacy or recycling centre.