The sharp guide to your straight razor
The most traditional and luxurious way to shave is with a razor. Maybe it's not something you've tried before, but the idea has probably occurred to most men at some point in their lives. It's a shaving habit you rarely change once you start. In this guide, we describe how to go about getting the best possible shaving experience.
A lot of people think that shaving with a straight razor is dangerous and takes an unnecessary amount of time. That can be the case, of course, if you don’t know what you are doing. The trick is to think of shaving as a ceremony, worth every second of care spent. Prepare yourself for the day by the most masculine form of grooming there is – shaving with a straight razor.
Mum was always saying that ”everything feels better after a hot running shower!” Shaving is no different. Wet skin always gives the best results. If you don’t have time for a shower, the next best thing is to wash your face in hot water.
Three decisive ingredients make up the perfect shave:
- A shaving brush
- A decent razor
- The right shaving soap.
Even if you perhaps are not yet ready for the straight razor, you will notice straight away an enormous difference simply by starting to use a shaving brush and proper soap. If you dare to take that step and use a straight razor, you will have all the ingredients to obtain the smoothest shave there is.
A shaving brush of real badger hair, though, is the most important ingredient in the quest for the perfect shave. Its ability to draw up and retain water is almost essential for producing a lather and allowing you to rub in the shaving soap properly. In this way, the shaving brush is able to lift the hairs and pack them underneath with soap so they are enclosed and stand up.
The shaving brush also has the advantage of removing dead cells from the surface of the skin. The technique is simple, even for a teenager with downy hair. Allow the shaving brush to soak up the hot water for a few seconds, lather up the tip of the shaving brush with shaving soap, then cover your face with upwards and downwards movements until a thick, creamy layer is formed. If you get all this right you’ll soon notice how effortlessly the blade glides over the skin, with none of that burning feeling and skin irritation.
The most vital technical aspect of shaving is the angle and pressure of the razor against the skin. All of you who use a safety razor will have to forget what you do now and learn the new technique. Always try to aim for an inclination of 30 degrees and go easy on the pressure so you almost stroke the skin with slow, careful movements. Whatever you do – never, EVER press the blade against your skin.
Perhaps you’re thinking: help! this can’t work like this. CALM DOWN! Mankind has been using this technique a lot longer than machines and safety razors. If they could do it before with inferior blades, brushes and soap then those of us living in this age can’t possibly fail. Could we?
Well, in fact it’s quite possible you’ll get a few cuts at first. This is quite normal as neither you nor your skin is used to the straight razor.
Keep at it, be calm and allow your technique to develop with each stroke. What is important is to have time and to take care in the mornings. Then, everything falls easily into place. Believe me, shaving is a time and an excuse to pay yourself a little attention. Surely that is something that shouldn’t be neglected? If you pass all the tests you'll wonder why you ever started using safety razors, shavers and all the rest of the commercial nonsense in that quest for more time in the day for something else. There are other positive effects in not being in such a hurry and viewing the whole thing as a ceremony before the day's tasks. You'll feel better and have time to waken up and plan your day. Be calmer and stop letting stress take your life away.
Feel free to let your free hand to stretch the skin.
The biggest “vanity” benefit of a straight razor is that you can be more precise with those important alluring little details. The shave, and most of all what you avoid shaving, becomes sharper, and you become sharper
Another big advantage with a straight razor is that for once it’s fine to shave against the hair growth. Brush on more shaving soap and give it another try. Experience the smoothness that will make the ladies envious.
When you have finished shaving you should wash in cold, refreshing water. It closes the pores and signals to the body that shaving is over. Using a clean, soft hand towel, pat lightly and carefully. Don’t forget, though, to rinse the shaving brush thoroughly, then give it a good shake so all the water is released. Store it upright or on a shaving brush stand, not lying down. This allows it to breathe and dry out in the air. In this way, your shaving brush will last longer and give you better usage. Then all you need to do is throw on the after shave. Voilà!
If you should get the odd nick, which is quite normal for beginners, it’s nothing to be scared of. Use a styptic pencil and once again you’ll look like the perfect shaving pro.
